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Abstract

This paper includes firstly a theoretical study of the combined effect of dimensionless fabrics construction factors such as thread diameter, thread, spacing, thread displacement from fabric center, degree of thread flattening and float ratio on crimp interchange between warp and weft threads.

The obtained relations determines the mathematical relations between number of weft, warp per inch and fabrics cover factors, add mathematical relations between Fabric structure and fabrics cover factors.

The study included secondly an experimental work follow up:

sample, type of weaving machine sulzer PU projectile, number of heald Produce 4 shafts 4, with use the same warp specification. we divided the sample two section.

Part (1). Plain weave 1/1.

Part (2). Satin weave 4.

With change the specification weft at which change counts and colors add change arrangements the picks to have a new various functional and aesthetically value to do the link between mathematics and physical and aesthetic properties design. The results showed a very good encouraging agreement between experimental and theoretical results.

Introduction

In a piece of woven fabric which has been allowed to relax, and which is not under the influence of external forces, the will be a certain balance between the warp and weft crimp. If the cloth is approximately square (I.e n1=n2 and N1=N2), the warp and weft crimps. (4)

Although we assume no external forces to be acting on the fabric, there will be internal forces within and between the yarns unparticular, the end and picks will exert pressure on each other at the intersection, as indicated by the small arrows (1).

There are at least two ways of approaching such a classification, the simplest is in terms of warp and weft cover factors.

(a) Approximately square cloths, in which the warp and weft counts, the ends (a) picks per inch, and therefore the warp and weft cover factors are approximately equal, so that warp and weft are equally prominent, or nearly so, on both sides of the cloth. The crimps are also usually approximately equal. This group includes cloths having a very wide range of weights and textures.

(b) Warp – faced cloths in which the weft cover factor substantially exceeds that of the weft. The variety of weights and textures is fairly wide, but less than that encountered (a)

(c) Weft – faced cloths in which the weft cover factor substantially exceeds that of the weft. The weft crimp is greater than that of the warp, and the weft is usually coarser and softer spun. The variety in this group is limited. ^(4,6,7)

Another method of classification, more logical in some respects, distinguishes between balanced and unbalanced structures:

(1) Balanced cloths in which the warp and weft counts are similar, and likewise the ends and picks per inch. In other words, these are square cloths. as defined in (a) above

(2) Unbalanced cloths include all those, which do not conform to the requirements of

(1). They are grouped under three headings:

(a) The ends and picks per inch are similar (i.e. square sett) , but the warp and weft counts are different , so the warp and weft cover factors are also different.

(b) The warp and weft counts are similar, but the ends and picks per inch are different, so again the warp and weft cover factors are different.

(c) The ends and picks per inch are different and so are the warp and weft counts. The warp and weft cover factors will usually be different, but in a special case they may be similar

It is necessary to note that the terin “balanced” is sometimes used in a different sense. We might, for instance construct a cloth as 36s * 16s cotton; 78 * 52. In this case.

K1=78/√36=13, K2=52/ √16 =13

The warp and weft cover factors are the same, so the cloth is balanced according to the preceding interpretation.

In a strictly square plain cloth n1= n2, N1 = N2, and c1 = c2 . In such cloth, the sections through the warp and weft are identical (2). (4,6,7) We are designing fabrics very important to describe and illustrate the difference between functional and aesthetic and analyses the role of design in meeting the functional and aesthetic requirements of fabrics products add evaluate a range of fabric items to determine appropriate design features. ^(8,9,10)

Experimental Work

Produce 4 sample ,type of weaving machine sulzer PU projectile, number of heald shafts 4 ,with use the same warp specification .we divided the sample two section.

Part (1). Plain weave 1/1 .

Part (2). Satin weave 4.

With change the specification weft at which change counts and colors add change arrangements the picks to have a new various functional and aesthetically value to do the link between mathematics and physical and aesthetic properties design fabric.

The experiments done follow up:

Specification the yarn sample 2-1

We had been used count 20/1 s cotton open end as a warp and weft. test result level

25% as the follow up:

Table 1: the result of the count 20/1 s cotton open end

PROPERTY	TEST RESULT USTER LEVEL 25%	USTER LEVEL 25%
AVERGE COUNT	19.7
C.V%	2.1	1.1
TOLERANCE COUNT%	1.5
TURN/INCH
TURN/INCH C.V%
TWIST FACTOR
TURN/INCH C.V%	6.25
ELONGATION	7	7
TENSILE STR .GM	309
TENSILE STR .GM C.V%	11.6	7.6
TENSILE STR .GM C.V%	11.6	7.6
R.K.M.	10.3	13.2
REGULARITY(1000)MT C.V%	15.7	14
THIN PLACES	17	5
THICK PLACES	106	45
NEPS	41	15
APPEARANCE INDEX

And we had been the count 40/1 cotton Giza 85 combed yearn as a weft only. Test result level 5% as the follow up:

Table 2: the result of the count 40/1 cotton Giza 85 combed yearn

PROPERTY	TEST RESULT USTER LEVEL 25%	USTER LEVEL 25%
AVERGE COUNT	40.9
C.V%	2.1	1.2
TOLERANCE COUNT%	2.3
TURN/INCH	28
TURN/INCH C.V%	6.2	2.8
TWIST FACTOR	4.4
ELONGATION	7	7
TENSILE STR .GM	241
TENSILE STR .GM C.V%	8.6	6.4
R.K.M.	16.7	23
REGULARITY(1000)MT C.V%	14.1	45.8
THIN PLACES	3	9
THICK PLACES	91	2000
NEPS	212	300
APPEARANCE INDEX	6.1	4.2

2-2 Specification fabric:

2-2-1 SECTION (1):

Sample -1- 2-2-1-1

20s * 30s (20s+40s) / 48 * 64
Structure: plain weave 1/1
Picks: one 40s : one 20s

Picks; two 40s : two 20s

2-2-1-2 Sample -2-

20s * 30s (20s+40s) / 48 * 64.

Structure : plain weave 1/1

picks ; two 40s : two 20s
k1(WARP) = T/ √ N = 48/ √ 20 =10.74
K2(WEFT) = T/ √ N = 64/ √ (40+20) = 11.68
COVER FACTORE = K1 +K2 = 10.74 + 11.68 = 22.42

K1((WARP)=28√NR/R+I=28*4.47*2/2+1=83

NUMBER PICKS PER INCH = 28 √N R / R + I = 28 *5.48 * 2/3 = 102
NUMBER THREAD PER SQURE INCH = 83 + 102 =185

ACTUAL THERDS OF SAMLE SECTION (1) = 112
ACTUAL PERCINTAGE % = 112/185 = 60%

M = Ni / Nr = 2/2 = 1

Ni =2 & Nr =2

SECTION (2)

2-2-2-1 Sample -3-
2-2-2-2 sample -4-
The same specification section (1) with changed of fabric structure to become stain 4
K1 = 28 * √ n * 4 / 2+2 = 28 * 4.47 * 4 / 4 = 125
K2 = 28 * √ n * 4 / 2+2 = 28 * 5.48 * 4 / 4 = 15
NUMBER THREAD PER SQURE INCH = k1 + k2 = 125 + 153 = 278
ACTUAL THERDS OF SAMLE SECTION (1) = 112
ACTUAL PERCINTAGE % = 112/278 = 40%

M = Ni / Nr = 2/4 = 0.5

Ni =2 & Nr = 4

Fig 1: the diagram one repeat of the plain samples construction

 

Fig 1: the diagram one repeat of the satin samples construction

2-2-1-1 Sample -1-

2-2-1-2 Sample -2-

Fig 3: some pattern 2-2-1-2 Sample  -2-

2-2-2-1 Sample -3-

2-2-2-2 sample -4-

Fig 4: some pattern 2-2-2 -1 Sample -3-2-2-2-2 sample -4-

Tests

Given below are the several tests , which were carried out in order to evaluate the produced fabrics:

*-Fabric tensile strength was carried out according to the ASTM-D⁽³⁾

*-Fabric elongation %was carried out according to the ASTM-D⁽³⁾

*-Air permeability was carried out according to the B.S.2925: 88S⁽⁵⁾

*-Fabric stiffness was carried out according to the ASTM-D1388⁽²⁾

*-fabrics weight was carried out according to the ASTM-D 3776-79 standard test method for weight⁽¹⁾

Results & Discussion

Results of experimental examination on the produced samples are presented in the following table and diagrams. Results were statically analyzed for data listed.

Table 3: summarizes the results of the tests applied to all samples used in this research

Conclusion

*-We can obtain the many of pattern through are changing the varieties of design. as arranging the weft diameters and arranging it . And change the structure fabric as plain weave 1/1 and satin4.

*- Change the color weft give us many different pattern .

*- Assurance the relatives the aesthetically and functional value. *-The research give us overview, how we can using the diameter weft and structure fabric to obtained a variety aesthetic and function value

*- the research give us overview the comparison between the physical properties of the elements design which used in the research. *- describe and illustrate the difference between functional and aesthetic

*- analyse the role of design in meeting the functional and aesthetic requirements of

textile products. (8,9,10)

*- evaluate a range of textile items to determine appropriate design features. (8,9,10)

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